Singapore’s new Laotian restaurant Ma Der Kin Khao offers a rare taste of Isan and Lao cuisine

Ma Der Kin Khao, a family-run eatery specialising in Laotian and Northeastern Thai (Isan) dishes, opened quietly in the basement of City Gate mall in late 2025. The restaurant, whose name means “come and eat rice” in Lao, aims to fill a notable gap in Singapore’s dining scene: while Thai food is ubiquitous, authentic Laotian cuisine remains scarce. Run by a Singaporean owner alongside his Laotian wife and a Lao chef, the spot serves home-cooked recipes in a casual, welcoming setting — and has already earned a 4/5 rating from Time Out Singapore.

A rare find in a city of Thai eateries

Singapore’s neighbourhoods are dotted with reliable Thai restaurants serving tom yum goong, pad kra pao and other classics. But Laotian food — and the related Isan cuisine from Thailand’s northeast, which shares deep cultural and culinary roots with Laos — is far harder to come by. Ma Der Kin Khao occupies a corner unit at 371 Beach Road, in a mall that already hosts a cluster of Thai favourites such as Beer Thai House and Golden Banana. The location feels natural, but the menu is anything but ordinary.

The restaurant’s approach is warm and fuss-free. Wooden tables, neon lights and simple decor set the tone, while the owner is happy to explain less familiar dishes and offer recommendations. Prices are nett, with drinks notably affordable: Thai iced milk tea and green milk tea go for $2 to $2.50, well below the $3 to $3.50 typical at Thai spots.

What to order: From creamy omelette to bamboo stew

The kitchen recommends sharing several dishes. A standout starter is the ho mok kai kon (seafood creamy omelette, $14). Unlike a traditional Thai omelette, this version incorporates red curry paste and coconut milk into beaten eggs, resulting in a slightly runny, gooey texture. Served over cabbage with three large prawns and squid, and fragrant with basil, it’s an easy crowd-pleaser.

A dish found nowhere else in Singapore is the soop pak Lao (Laos mixed vegetable salad, $8). Blanched water spinach, mushrooms, black fungus and sesame seeds are tossed in a peanut-heavy sauce reminiscent of Chinese sesame paste. Though the fermented fish sauce and chili heat are subtle, the salad serves as a gentle introduction to Lao flavours.

Another highlight is the laab ped (grilled minced duck salad, $14). This traditional minced meat salad — sometimes made with pork or catfish — uses duck for a firmer bite, its texture almost like sisig. The fermented fish sauce comes through strongly, balanced by onions, kaffir lime and mint leaves.

For the adventurous, the kaeng nor mai (bamboo stew, $16) is a dark, peppery soup loaded with bamboo shoots, black fungus and fermented crabs. The broth gets its distinct herbal character from yanang leaf extract and phak kha (climbing wattle leaves) — ingredients rare in Singapore. Fans of bamboo shoots in ramen will appreciate the crunchy texture.

Those wary of unfamiliar flavours need not worry: the menu also includes familiar items like grilled marinated chicken and beef brisket (from $10), moo ping (pork skewers, $6 for three), pad kra pao ($8), tom yum seafood soup ($15) and steamed whole seabass with lime ($26).

Verdict: A confident debut

Ma Der Kin Khao’s biggest strength is its unique blend of Laotian and Isan Thai flavours, something genuinely new in a market saturated with Thai options. The inclusion of familiar dishes — tom yum goong, moo ping, basil pork stir-fries — makes it easy to bring along even the pickiest eaters. But the real draw is the Lao food.

While there is no other benchmark in Singapore, the recipes are tried-and-tested home cooking, crafted by a chef who knows the cuisine firsthand. The restaurant is a solid introduction to Lao food, and the owner recommends returning for the Laos papaya salad and beef-and-vegetable stew.

Open Tuesday to Thursday, noon to 9:30pm, and Friday to Sunday, noon to 10pm. More details are available on the restaurant’s Instagram page. For those willing to step beyond the familiar, Ma Der Kin Khao is well worth the trip to City Gate.