Nestled within the serene greenery of Portsdown Road, Ce Soir is currently serving a masterclass in sentimental gastronomy. Spearheaded by Chef Seth Lai—the recipient of the 2024 Michelin Young Chef Award—the restaurant’s latest winter menu transforms the humble flavors of Teluk Intan, Malaysia, into an avant-garde dining experience. By blending classical French precision with premium Japanese produce and Southeast Asian heart, Lai creates a narrative-driven menu that proves fine dining can be as much about heritage as it is about luxury.
A Masterclass in Narrative Dining
The experience begins with more than just a menu; guests are greeted with an illustrated booklet that bridges the gap between Chef Lai’s childhood memories and the elevated plates that follow. The restaurant encourages a playful “guess the inspiration” approach, letting diners connect the dots between modern aesthetics and traditional Malaysian roots.
The meal kicks off with a snack trio that highlights Lai’s ability to balance rich textures with bright acidity. A standout is the ankimo (monkfish liver) served inside a hollowed-out mandarin. The instruction to drizzle fresh citrus over the buttery liver provides a sharp, refreshing counterpoint. Similarly, a Wagyu tart seasoned with lime leaf and green mango serves as a “memory capsule,” instantly evoking the scents of a traditional Malaysian pantry.
Reimagining Regional Classics
Ce Soir’s strength lies in its ability to strip away the “funk” of Southeast Asian staples while retaining their soul.
- The Kanpachi Course: This dish reimagines rojak using guava granita and amberjack, tied together with a subtle hint of hae gou (prawn paste) that provides depth without overpowering the delicate fish.
- Traditional Broths: A winter melon soup, served in a carved husk, captures the smoky essence of dried cuttlefish. Unlike many traditional Cantonese versions, the octopus remains tender while the peanuts retain a surprising crunch.
- The Sawara (Spanish Mackerel): Inspired by assam fish, the mackerel is prepared to a succulent, buttery consistency. While the tamarind sauce and cabbage are bold, the fish shines brightest when enjoyed on its own.
Decadent Transitions
The meal progresses through inventive courses like a star-anise-glazed house bread and a standout Dang Gui Duck. The duck, served perfectly pink with a Marmite glaze, utilizes the medicinal aroma of angelica root to create a savory profile so addictive it practically begs for a side of rice.
That craving is satisfied by the final savory course: a vibrant, five-grain medley inspired by the Malaysian “fried porridge” known as pao fan. Simmered in a Japanese seafood stock and studded with pickled cucumbers and sakura ebi, it is a complex, texture-rich conclusion that arguably outshines its accompaniment of South African abalone.
Plan Your Visit
Ce Soir offers three tiers of service to suit different occasions:
- Three-course Lunch: $68 per person
- Five-course Lunch: $108 per person
- Eight-course Dinner: $228 per person (Recommended for the full narrative experience)
The current winter menu is available until mid-April, after which Chef Lai is rumored to be turning his attention to spring inspirations like chee cheong fun. Given the restaurant’s intimate floral dining room and garden terrace, it remains a premier destination for both romantic milestones and serious culinary enthusiasts.
Location: 5B Portsdown Road, #01-03, Singapore 139311
Reservations: cesoir.com.sg