Singapore’s vibrant dining scene has welcomed Barrel: Story of Hibiki, an unprecedented Japanese-inspired concept on Cecil Street that merges the casual atmosphere of an izakaya with high-end culinary artistry, all centered around Suntory’s revered Hibiki whisky. This marks the brand’s first dedicated concept restaurant outside of its native Japan, offering a refined space where sophisticated spirits meet elevated Japanese bar snacks and creative renditions of familiar regional dishes—including a provocative, $46 luxury plate of Singapore’s iconic chicken rice.
Whisky Meets Gastronomy in a Polished Setting
Backed by the formidable Suntory brand, Barrel elevates the conventional after-work drinking spot from simple beers and bar bites to a sleek, polished destination. Located in a historic space previously home to institutions like The Black Swan, the restaurant boasts reclaimed cask wood panels shipped directly from Suntory’s distilleries, creating a truly unique aesthetic.
The interior favors dark woods and textured stone, cultivating a moody, elegant atmosphere—a stark contrast to the often-raucous packed izakayas. The centerpiece of the main dining area is a captivating 10-seater counter surrounding an open woodfire, fueled by wood from Hibiki barrels, allowing diners to witness the chefs in action. For those seeking an intimate retreat, The Vault, a former bank vault in the basement, has been transformed into a Zen-like eight-seater private dining room, steeped in the faint aroma of aged whisky and lined entirely with reclaimed casks. This space requires separate bookings and a minimum spend.
Chef Sho Naganuma Pushes Culinary Boundaries
Chef-partner Sho Naganuma, also behind the popular Torasho Ramen & Charcoal Bar, steers the menu far beyond standard grilled fare. While classic staples like tonkotsu ramen are available, the focus here is on innovative “otsumami”—plates specifically designed to pair with drinks—and inventive mains.
Dishes feature whisky-infused sauces and unexpected flavor combinations. Highlights include the indulgent Uni-Corn Croquette ($24 for two pieces), a deep-fried parcel stuffed with sweet creamed corn, drizzled with butter sauce, and crowned with opulent uni. Another textural masterpiece is the Tonsoku Harumaki ($12 per piece), a crispy spring roll encasing rich, slow-braised pig’s trotter. Guests can also enjoy refined bites such as prosciutto and cream cheese maki ($18 for four pieces) wrapped around seasonal fruits.
The $46 Chicken Rice Debate
Barrel has sparked conversation with its ultra-premium rendition of chicken rice, served at a staggering $46. The dish features poached, free-range French chicken cooked in fat, Japanese pearl rice infused with chicken stock, a decadent topping of Oscietra caviar, and a finishing touch of Hibiki whisky-laced oyster sauce. While highly experimental, critical feedback suggests the dish, though tender, lacks the signature gelatinous skin layer essential to a great traditional version, and the caviar felt ornamental. It serves primarily as a novelty indulgence rather than a definitive take on the national dish.
More worthy of its price tag is the Aburi Wagyu Donabe ($68), which necessitates a 40-minute preparation time. The dish showcases stellar A5 aburi wagyu complemented by textured Japanese rice, cured egg yolk, and generous portions of green onions and nori, delivering a buttery, addictive depth of flavor.
A Destination for Suntory Whisky Aficionados
As a concept dedicated to Hibiki, Barrel boasts one of Asia’s most comprehensive selections of Suntory whiskies, ranging from the smooth Hibiki Japanese Harmony to the highly coveted 21- and 30-year limited expressions.
The bar specializes in whisky flights, offering experiences for every budget. The Story of Hibiki flight ($38) presents Japanese Harmony in three formats: highball, on the rocks, and mizuwari. For collectors, the menu features ultra-exclusive options, including a $188 Hibiki 100th Anniversary Edition flight and the extraordinary $988 The Barrel flight.
Cocktails cleverly integrate the whisky, such as the simple yet effective Hibiki highball ($18) and the complex, Japanese-inspired Hibiki Sling ($28). Beyond whisky, the menu features other Suntory spirits, including the refreshing Citrus Twist Sour ($22) and the Hakushu rice vodka-spiked Matcha Coco ($26), though some blended concoctions like the latter are noted to be overly syrupy.
Overall, Barrel: Story of Hibiki achieves its aim of delivering a sophisticated, design-forward dining experience that expertly marries Japanese spirit culture with culinary innovation, earning a strong 4/5 rating.
Barrel: Story of Hibiki is located at 19 Cecil St, Singapore 049704. Open Mondays to Saturdays from noon to 11 pm.