In Singapore’s dynamic culinary landscape, Chef Bjorn Shen, the well-known founder of Artichoke and a former MasterChef Singapore judge, has once again defied convention with his latest pop-up concept, Jellyfish Sushi. Located inside Artichoke at the New Bahru complex, this intimate 10-seat venue trades the centuries-old tradition of shari (vinegared rice) for artisanal bread, launching what Shen playfully dubs the “doughmakase.” This experimental format aims to challenge perceptions of raw seafood preparation by exploring how different textures and components of bread can elevate the sushi experience.
A Culinary Experiment in Bread and Fish
Jellyfish Sushi joins Shen’s existing experimental venture, Small’s, as a “restaurant-in-a-restaurant.” While Small’s often serves as an ingredient-led research and development hub—currently featuring a Korean Duck Feast—Jellyfish Sushi focuses its curiosity-driven ethos on raw and lightly treated seafood preparations, mirroring the fluidity suggested by its name. The debut offering is a 12-course menu priced at S$165 per person.
The fundamental question Shen poses with this concept is simple: What happens when bread replaces rice as the primary vehicle for high-quality seafood? Analogous to how a sushi master meticulously tempers shari to complement each cut of fish, Shen’s team precisely pairs various cuts and crusts of bread with traditional omakase ingredients.
The unconventional pairing, while surprising in a dedicated sushi format, draws parallels with open-face seafood traditions globally, from Danish smørrebrød to Dutch broodje haring. The “doughmakase” begins traditionally, with starters like rice-less salmon maki, before introducing the signature bread sushi.
High Points of the Doughmakase Journey
The integration of bread proved remarkably cohesive, blending textures and flavors in an unexpectedly complementary manner. Early courses successfully set the tone:
- Cured Mackerel: Paired with stracciatella and zucchini, this hand-roll style creation highlighted the successful fusion of rich cheese and savory fish wrapped in nori and soft bread.
- Soy-Marinated Kanpachi: Served atop the dense bottom half of a bread slice much like an open-faced sandwich, this offered a satisfying, firm crunch contrasting with the delicate fish.
One standout dish was the Red Sea Bream, which utilized kombujime—the traditional method of aging fish between sheets of kombu to deepen flavor. Dressed with garlic oil, lemon zest, and layered over a thin, fluffy piece of top crust, the presentation was likened to a savory yu sheng salad.
Focusing on the pinnacle of omakase ingredients, later courses featured variations of tuna. A negitoro and leek preparation used the crunchy side crust, or “rib,” of the bread, while a rich otoro cut, lightly seared and soy-marinated, was served over the firm bottom crust, emphasizing the structural role of the bread.
The meal concluded with a highly acclaimed dish: ultra-chewy, green Awaji Island wakame noodles. Served with two dips, a clean, smoky soba tsuyu broth infused with roasted mackerel bones and charred bread, and a creamy, carbonara-like asari clam potage, the noodles offered a familiar grounding element after a series of conceptual surprises.
Conceptual Ambition and Future Plans
Ultimately, Jellyfish Sushi earns high marks (4/5) for its expertly executed flavors and clever recontextualization of familiar seafood preparations. The concept is less about radical innovation than providing a refreshing, accessible twist on an often-reverent dining style.
While the flavor profiles were universally praised, some might wish for greater emphasis on the bread itself—specifically, a deeper dive into the baking process or the specific types of bread employed to support a menu explicitly titled “doughmakase.”
Bjorn Shen’s experimentation is far from finished. Future iterations of Jellyfish Sushi are expected to push the boundaries further, potentially seeing sushi ingredients served atop completely new foundations. Diners should not be surprised if upcoming menus feature pairings with formats like risotto or Vietnamese summer rolls, ensuring that the “jellyfish” ethos of unpredictability continues to define the dining experience.
Jellyfish Sushi is currently taking reservations and operates Tuesday to Saturday, from 6pm to 10.15pm, at 46 Kim Yam Rd, New Bahru, Artichoke, #01-02, Singapore 239351.