A captivating fusion of French culinary technique and Japanese sensibility is redefining fine dining in Singapore, housed within the historically significant House of Tan Yeok Nee. Loca Niru, the new 36-seat restaurant, overcomes initial skepticism by delivering a thoughtfully nuanced menu by Chef Shusuke Kubota that uniquely integrates bold Southeast Asian ingredients into classic formats, offering one of the year’s most compelling dining experiences inside the newly accessible 140-year-old Teochew mansion at 101 Penang Road.
The restaurant’s location itself is noteworthy. The House of Tan Yeok Nee represents the last of the “Four Grand Mansions” of traditional Teochew architecture, finally opening its doors to the public. While some might have anticipated a Teochew fine-dining concept to honor the history, Chef Kubota’s vision at Loca Niru draws strength from contrast, setting an immediate tone of refined simplicity and deep contemplation rooted in the Japanese philosophy of Kotan.
Design and Atmosphere Embrace Subtle Elegance
The interior seamlessly marries the mansion’s preserved heritage with minimalist Japanese aesthetics. Visitors ascend to the dining room, immediately noticing the original wooden trusses and decorative Teochew carvings visible through the windows. This historical backdrop is softened by elements of wabi sabi, focusing attention inward toward the intimate, open kitchen. The cozy setting, offering both group tables and private spaces, ensures the culinary presentation remains the central focus.
The experience at Loca Niru is meticulous, translating into premium pricing that places it alongside Singapore’s most ambitious dining establishments. The cost reflects the reliance on premium Japanese produce, labor-intensive preparation, and intricate presentation.
Culinary Integration: Southeast Asian Flair Meets European Precision
The eight-course tasting menu, priced at $298, immediately signals Chef Kubota’s innovative approach. The opening hassun course, traditionally a collection of small bites, sets the stage. Highlights include Hokkaido sweet prawn tartare brightened by tosazu jelly and Malaysian pomelo, and frog leg—a nod to both French and local cuisine—transformed into a roulade wrapped in crisp kadaif with a depth-adding curry leaf aioli.
Kubota’s strength lies in his reimagining of classic luxury ingredients through a regional lens. Rich chutoro is expertly balanced with a dressing of roselle and calamansi, serving as a bright, local interpretation of ponzu. A standout is the braised abalone, paired with a vegetable-stock chawanmushi and crowned with seasonal mushrooms simmered in an intensely savory consommé.
The apex of the meal is the isaki, or Japanese grunt fish, pan-seared to achieve shatteringly crisp skin and succulent flesh. It is presented with a Nyonya-inspired beurre blanc, a sauce that previously earned Chef Kubota a prestigious culinary accolade. Crucially, the accompanying bun, kneaded with buah keluak, is provided specifically for diners to savor every drop of the expertly crafted sauce.
Even the desserts, created without a dedicated pastry chef, prove memorable. The concluding Malaysian chocolate dessert, layered evocatively with gula melaka sabayon, nutmeg, and roselle, offers a rich and thematic finale.
Thoughtful Pairings Elevate the Experience
Loca Niru offers well-considered beverage pairing options, including both a sake pairing ($148) and a wine pairing ($188). The selections are calibrated to support, rather than overshadow, the complex flavors of the food. The balance-focused approach is exemplified by choices like a clean, mineral-driven junmai ginjo from Nagano, mirroring the menu’s understated refinement.
Loca Niru operates Tuesday through Saturday, with dinner service from 6 p.m. to 11 p.m. (last seating at 8 p.m.). This new opening offers a distinctive perspective on high-end dining, demonstrating that the thoughtful inclusion of Southeast Asian influences can elevate classical French-Japanese methods, making it a pivotal addition to Singapore’s culinary landscape.