A bold new dining establishment, Loca Niru, has defied initial skepticism by blending classical French technique and meticulous Japanese sensibility with dynamic Southeast Asian ingredients, marking the first time the historic House of Tan Yeok Nee has opened its doors to the public. Located in the last remaining structure of Singapore’s “Four Grand Mansions” of Teochew architecture, the fine-dining concept, spearheaded by Chef Shusuke Kubota, reinterprets regional flavors through an eight-course tasting menu, positioning itself as one of the city-state’s most compelling culinary debuts this year.
Historic Setting Meets Wabi-Sabi Design
The restaurant’s atmosphere immediately immerses guests in the Japanese philosophy of Kotan, emphasizing quiet simplicity and refined contemplation. This aesthetic complements the 140-year-old mansion’s preserved architecture, where original wooden trusses and striking Teochew carvings—including decorative mosaics made from porcelain bowls visible through the large windows—provide a dramatic backdrop. Offering an intimate experience, the 36-seat main dining room focuses attention on the open kitchen, while private dining areas are strategically tucked away. The design masterfully balances historical reverence with a distinct, minimalist wabi-sabi charm.
Southeast Asian Flavors Drive Culinary Innovation
Chef Kubota’s distinctive approach moves beyond conventional French-Japanese fusion by actively incorporating local and regional components, resulting in a menu that feels genuinely novel. The dining experience begins with a compelling eight-course tasting menu priced at \$298.
The initial hassun course successfully sets the tone, demonstrating the innovative integration of flavors. A Hokkaido sweet prawn tartare, for example, is uplifted by tosazu jelly and Malaysian pomelo. Later courses continue this trajectory: a frog leg roulade, a nod to both French tradition and local preferences, is wrapped in crisp kadaif and served alongside a depth-adding curry leaf aioli.
A standout course is the chutoro, its richness expertly balanced by an intense smoked tofu cream and a roselle–calamansi dressing, offering a regional twist on traditional ponzu. The braised abalone, nestled in a vegetable-stock chawanmushi and topped with seasonal mushrooms simmered in a savory consommé, also impressed.
The inventive use of regional ingredients reaches a pinnacle with the seared Japanese grunt fish (isaki). The fish, celebrated for its shatteringly crisp skin and lush flesh, is paired with a Nyonya-inspired beurre blanc—a previous award-winner for Chef Kubota. A bun kneaded with the intensely flavored local ingredient buah keluak is served specifically for soaking up the remaining sauce, providing a distinctly Singaporean touch.
While the menu is largely faultless in execution, the grilled A5 wagyu, though undeniably delicious with a burnt onion jus and sugarcane smoke, offered one of the few familiar combinations, prompting a desire for even greater Southeast Asian influence, consistent with the rest of the menu’s adventurous spirit.
Thoughtful Beverage Pairings and Refreshing Desserts
Loca Niru’s beverage program supports, rather than overshadows, the complex dishes, offering highly curated options. Patrons can choose between a sake pairing (\$148) or a wine pairing (\$188). Highlights like a mineral-driven junmai ginjo from Nagano perfectly mirror the clean, precise approach of the cuisine.
Desserts, developed without a dedicated pastry chef, prove surprisingly refined. The closing dish, a memorable Malaysian chocolate creation layered with gula melaka sabayon, nutmeg, and roselle, provides a fittingly aromatic and refreshing conclusion.
For fine-dining aficionados, Loca Niru, located at 101 Penang Road, represents a significant and promising addition to Singapore’s culinary landscape. What guests pay for is a combination of premium Japanese produce, meticulous cooking techniques, and, most notably, a thoughtful and compelling integration of Southeast Asian flavors within a truly unique historical setting.
Address: House of Tan Yeok Nee, 101 Penang Road #02-01
Hours: Tue–Sat 6pm–11pm (last seating 8pm)
Cost Expectation: Above \$300 per person with beverages, positioning it among Singapore’s most ambitious new restaurants.